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glockmail
03-01-2007, 10:47 PM
About 8 years old, and it started leaking oil at the head. I bought gaskets, took apart what I needed, including the valve rocker arms, and replaced the leaking gaskets. I reset the valve lash, it was slightly off on both. Now the engine is very hard to pull start, lots of tension on the pull rope, but it starts on the first pull, and runs fine.

Anyone know what the problem might be?

Is there a compression release that I may have screwed up?

Mr. P
03-08-2007, 02:43 PM
About 8 years old, and it started leaking oil at the head. I bought gaskets, took apart what I needed, including the valve rocker arms, and replaced the leaking gaskets. I reset the valve lash, it was slightly off on both. Now the engine is very hard to pull start, lots of tension on the pull rope, but it starts on the first pull, and runs fine.

Anyone know what the problem might be?

Is there a compression release that I may have screwed up?

Just a guess…when you reassembled, something in the rope pull mechanism got misaligned maybe. That’s where I’d look first.

glockmail
03-08-2007, 03:04 PM
Just a guess…when you reassembled, something in the rope pull mechanism got misaligned maybe. That’s where I’d look first. Thanks, but I'm positive that's not it. It's not a friction type resistance, but a compreesion type that increases rapidly, then decreases. I've emailed B&S for help but so far no response (except for a faggoty survey asking how my experience was).

Mr. P
03-08-2007, 03:09 PM
Thanks, but I'm positive that's not it. It's not a friction type resistance, but a compreesion type that increases rapidly, then decreases. I've emailed B&S for help but so far no response (except for a faggoty survey asking how my experience was).

Maybe a spring assist then? Donno

Try this site, I get lots of info there, their mods are people in each field....http://forum.doityourself.com/

trobinett
03-08-2007, 03:37 PM
First, bring the engine to TDC then piston should travel a 1/4" past TDC, now you can set your valves.

These engines DO have compression releases, they effect the intake valve, they have been known to fail. Not the end of the world, but has the effect you describe.

Some times its just a weak spring on the compression release and you can tighten up the clearance a .001 or so.

Good luck.

glockmail
03-08-2007, 03:52 PM
First, bring the engine to TDC then piston should travel a 1/4" past TDC, now you can set your valves.

These engines DO have compression releases, they effect the intake valve, they have been known to fail. Not the end of the world, but has the effect you describe.

Some times its just a weak spring on the compression release and you can tighten up the clearance a .001 or so.

Good luck.

Thanks. I'll try setting the valves at this position.

By "tighten up the clearance a .001 or so", do you mean the intake valve clearance?

trobinett
03-08-2007, 04:45 PM
Thanks. I'll try setting the valves at this position.

By "tighten up the clearance a .001 or so", do you mean the intake valve clearance?

Do you have a "tech manual"?

Generally on OHV, Briggs and Stratton recommends about .004 on the intake, I'm saying go to about .003. What that does, is starts the "opening process" just a touch sooner.

Oh, you've checked to make sure there isn't any push rod issues, correct?

Some models use little caps that sit on top of valve stems, did yours have them, and if so, are they still there?

If you don't know, let me know, I'll go into Parts Smart, and check it out for you.

I'm at the shop right now, so make it snappy!:poke:

glockmail
03-08-2007, 05:18 PM
Do you have a "tech manual"?

Generally on OHV, Briggs and Stratton recommends about .004 on the intake, I'm saying go to about .003. What that does, is starts the "opening process" just a touch sooner.

Oh, you've checked to make sure there isn't any push rod issues, correct?

Some models use little caps that sit on top of valve stems, did yours have them, and if so, are they still there?

If you don't know, let me know, I'll go into Parts Smart, and check it out for you.

I'm at the shop right now, so make it snappy!:poke:

I have The Operator/ Owner maunal and a separate parts manual; no "Tech Manual". The owner manual gives valve lash specs of 0.004-0.008 (both) with springs in and piston 0.1" past TDC. I set them to 0.006.

I have little caps and did not lose them. I'm no expert but I've been a shade tree mechanic for 30 years so know better than that.

Gonna try and reset this now while you're available.

glockmail
03-08-2007, 05:36 PM
....

Maybe this is where I'm going wrong. I've always defined TDC as piston all the way up, just before the intake opens. When I go past that, the valve opens. So I adjusted them at the end of the compression cycle.

What gives?

trobinett
03-08-2007, 06:09 PM
Maybe this is where I'm going wrong. I've always defined TDC as piston all the way up, just before the intake opens. When I go past that, the valve opens. So I adjusted them at the end of the compression cycle.

What gives?

TDC is when BOTH valves are closed(the compression stroke), the next stroke is the power stroke, then the exhaust stroke, and finally the intake stroke. Sounds like you've been doing the adjustment on the intake stroke.

Let me know........

glockmail
03-08-2007, 06:41 PM
TDC is when BOTH valves are closed(the compression stroke), the next stroke is the power stroke, then the exhaust stroke, and finally the intake stroke. Sounds like you've been doing the adjustment on the intake stroke.

Let me know........

My old Chilton's Motorcycle Troubleshooting Guide defines it differently. But no, I've been making the adjutments just past TDC, start of the power stroke.

I just set the intake at 0.003 and the exhaust at 0.004, changed the oil, started it up and it caught fire and blew up the neighborhood.

:laugh2:

I'm kidding. It actually started on the first EEEZZZZ crank, on last falls gas!

Thanks for your help.

Now what do you know about rototiller transmissions....

Mr. P
03-08-2007, 06:45 PM
My old Chilton's Motorcycle Troubleshooting Guide defines it differently. But no, I've been making the adjutments just past TDC, start of the power stroke.

I just set the intake at 0.003 and the exhaust at 0.004, changed the oil, started it up and it caught fire and blew up the neighborhood.

:laugh2:

I'm kidding. It actually started on the first EEEZZZZ crank, on last falls gas!

Thanks for your help.

Now what do you know about rototiller transmissions....

Get a mule an plow! :laugh2:

trobinett
03-08-2007, 10:08 PM
My old Chilton's Motorcycle Troubleshooting Guide defines it differently. But no, I've been making the adjutments just past TDC, start of the power stroke.

I just set the intake at 0.003 and the exhaust at 0.004, changed the oil, started it up and it caught fire and blew up the neighborhood.

:laugh2:

I'm kidding. It actually started on the first EEEZZZZ crank, on last falls gas!

Thanks for your help.

Now what do you know about rototiller transmissions....

Hey, for a fellow DP'er, whats your question.

Lawn and Garden is my LIFE..............:dance:

glockmail
03-08-2007, 10:33 PM
Hey, for a fellow DP'er, whats your question.

Lawn and Garden is my LIFE..............:dance: Its a Sears rear tine 5HP model, and I've owned it for 20 years, and worked it hard on both NY sod and Piedmont red clay. I loaned it to a neighbor to break up some hard dirt so he culd put a walk in, and it jammed. I don't blame him, as it's got more than a few hours on it, but I was not around to see it happen. I suspect he threw the shifter into revese with the flywheel still turning, or vice versa. It was getting to the point where it spun for a while after the "clutch" belt was disengaged.

I took the belt off and cannot rotate the input shaft pulley in either direction. I suspect I have a broken gear tooth. I have the parts diagram. As it will take a while to get at the transmission (its practically part of the frame) I don't plan on pulling it apart until I have a free weekend, maybe the last one in March, but most likely mid-April. If I have any problems with it then I'll post here or PM you.

Do you think I have a snowballs chance of fixing it or will I be wasting my time?

glockmail
03-09-2007, 02:16 PM
Here's the diagram

trobinett
03-09-2007, 02:47 PM
Its a Sears rear tine 5HP model, and I've owned it for 20 years, and worked it hard on both NY sod and Piedmont red clay. I loaned it to a neighbor to break up some hard dirt so he culd put a walk in, and it jammed. I don't blame him, as it's got more than a few hours on it, but I was not around to see it happen. I suspect he threw the shifter into revese with the flywheel still turning, or vice versa. It was getting to the point where it spun for a while after the "clutch" belt was disengaged.

I took the belt off and cannot rotate the input shaft pulley in either direction. I suspect I have a broken gear tooth. I have the parts diagram. As it will take a while to get at the transmission (its practically part of the frame) I don't plan on pulling it apart until I have a free weekend, maybe the last one in March, but most likely mid-April. If I have any problems with it then I'll post here or PM you.

Do you think I have a snowballs chance of fixing it or will I be wasting my time?

Piece of cake Glock.

We've got two of them torn down right now. One, the shifter was stuck in neutral, the other is "jammed", probably a combination of the shifter, and something else.

Here's the important thing, VERY IMPORTANT, each of these transmissions are HAND ASSEMBLED, the shims, how many there are, and their placement are unique to only THAT transmission.

Lay the trans on its side, with that half of the trans, that has the gear cluster laying against the work surface.

Oh, and another thing, the wheel shaft, and the tiller shaft must be clean, and free of rust, that's the side you'll be lifting away from the rest of the transmission. The littlest piece of dirt will drive you nuts, cause it will hang the transmission half from slipping over those shafts. A little prep work goes a long way.

The Sears unit you have is made by AYP(American Yard Products)actually a German/Swedish conglomerate, Electroluxe.

Good luck.....

Mr. P
03-09-2007, 02:55 PM
Piece of cake Glock.

We've got two of them torn down right now. One, the shifter was stuck in neutral, the other is "jammed", probably a combination of the shifter, and something else.

Here's the important thing, VERY IMPORTANT, each of these transmissions are HAND ASSEMBLED, the shims, how many there are, and their placement are unique to only THAT transmission.

Lay the trans on its side, with that half of the trans, that has the gear cluster laying against the work surface.

Oh, and another thing, the wheel shaft, and the tiller shaft must be clean, and free of rust, that's the side you'll be lifting away from the rest of the transmission. The littlest piece of dirt will drive you nuts, cause it will hang the transmission half from slipping over those shafts. A little prep work goes a long way.

The Sears unit you have is made by AYP(American Yard Products)actually a German/Swedish conglomerate, Electroluxe.

Good luck.....

Electroluxe? good vacuum cleaner!

trobinett
03-09-2007, 03:55 PM
Electroluxe? good vacuum cleaner!

Yea they are, they also make Husqvarna chain saws, Poulan and were looking at buying Murray but Briggs, and Stratton out bid them.

glockmail
03-09-2007, 05:20 PM
Electroluxe? good vacuum cleaner! I bought an Electrolux refrigerator and it's frigging gorgeous (floor model, awesome price break) but the electronics are impossible to figger out. Plus it doesn't cool the water on the freezer door!? And it was made in Austrailia! That's about as far away as can be and still be on the same planet!

trobinett
03-09-2007, 05:25 PM
I bought an Electrolux refrigerator and it's frigging gorgeous (floor model, awesome price break) but the electronics are impossible to figger out. Plus it doesn't cool the water on the freezer door!? And it was made in Austrailia! That's about as far away as can be and still be on the same planet!

I beg to differ, San Francisco is the champ in that somewhat dubious distinction.

glockmail
05-15-2007, 06:22 PM
I'm still working on the tiller. I had to use gear and wheel pullers to take the tines and wheels off. The problem was a seized bearing on the input shaft. Sears had the parts, but their web site sold me 6 bearing seals instead of the two I ordered. I have the case back together and everything shifts and turns smoothly. I screwed up tough, and forgot to replace the tine shaft seals before I assembled it. They can only be reached from the outside anyway, and I have to cut off the rivets that hold the cups that hold the bearings and seals in place. One of the cups is messed up and they don't sell that part, so I'll have to make something. If I have to weld or the rivets fall into the case I'll have to dissasemble.

Mr. P
05-15-2007, 06:29 PM
I'm still working on the tiller. I had to use gear and wheel pullers to take the tines and wheels off. The problem was a seized bearing on the input shaft. Sears had the parts, but their web site sold me 6 bearing seals instead of the two I ordered. I have the case back together and everything shifts and turns smoothly. I screwed up tough, and forgot to replace the tine shaft seals before I assembled it. They can only be reached from the outside anyway, and I have to cut off the rivets that hold the cups that hold the bearings and seals in place. One of the cups is messed up and they don't sell that part, so I'll have to make something. If I have to weld or the rivets fall into the case I'll have to dissasemble.

I'm all for Do it yourself stuff...but I've come to a point that the trash and a new one works in many cases. An age thing I think, I just don't want to screw with it.

glockmail
05-15-2007, 06:34 PM
I'm all for Do it yourself stuff...but I've come to a point that the trash and a new one works in many cases. An age thing I think, I just don't want to screw with it. I considered that before taking this one on, but a new one is $850. The parts were about $60.

Mr. P
05-15-2007, 06:43 PM
I considered that before taking this one on, but a new one is $850. The parts were about $60.

Well that makes it an easy decision. Man, is it a tractor? :laugh2:

glockmail
05-15-2007, 08:06 PM
Well that makes it an easy decision. Man, is it a tractor? :laugh2:

http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/product.do?cat=Power+Lawn+Equipment&pid=07129704000&vertical=LAWN&subcat=Tillers&BV_UseBVCookie=Yes

Nearly. It will pull shit around. Looks like its on sale now. Hasn't changed much in 20 years.