I'm renovating a house myself

[glockmail]

The compressor clutch? Don't say that!

I haven't worked on autos in years. But my guess is you can by a rebuilt unit one for cheap. It sould be an easy bolt-on, then replace the freon. You can also buy some freon replacement over the internet, at least so I've been told.

Or else revert back to 2w40 air conditioning.

[Pale Rider]

Let's talk auto a/c..
I have a problem..I think it's a presure switch. The compresser will not kick on until 21-2200 rpm below that no go. What do you think?

You're low on freon. Have your system checked. It probably has a slow leak. They'll put die in the system, run it, and look for leaks with a black light. If it's a small enough leak, they can put a sealant in with a new charge of freon. And it sounds like it's a small leak, if your compressor still kicks in, then that means there's still enough freon left in your system to kick on the compressor, but it's low.

[Mr. P]

You're low on freon. Have your system checked. It probably has a slow leak. They'll put die in the system, run it, and look for leaks with a black light. If it's a small enough leak, they can put a sealant in with a new charge of freon. And it sounds like it's a small leak, if your compressor still kicks in, then that means there's still enough freon left in your system to kick on the compressor, but it's low.

Since my first post I did add a can of 134..still the same though 21-2200 rpm before it kicks on. When it does it's good and cold. I'm afraid to add more for fear of overcharging..what do you think..? One more 1/2 can maybe?

[loosecannon]

The compressor clutch? Don't say that!

There is a clutch built into the pulley on the compressor. Easy to replace and fairly cheap.

[Hagbard Celine]

I'm putting in outside floodlights on all four corners of my house so what I've done is go in the attic and run wire from the front left corner of the house, to the back left corner, across the back to the back right corner and up to the front right corner. I want to install a light switch to control all four lights in the middle of the left side of the house. I want to piggy-back the new wire and switch off of an existing switch. My question is, how do I do it? I have a rough idea of what to do, but I like to know exactly what I'm doing before I do it for obvious reasons.

The original switch actually bridges two wires. Each wire has a black and a white wire (no ground--the wires are too old for that.) When I run my new wire, that'll make three white wires, three black wires and a ground. I'll have to put all these wires onto two switches while simultaneously keeping the connection between the original two wires and getting power to the new wire. The original switch was set up as follows: The white wires were taped together and the black wires went into the switch.

[glockmail]

I'm putting in outside floodlights on all four corners of my house so what I've done is go in the attic and run wire from the front left corner of the house, to the back left corner, across the back to the back right corner and up to the front right corner. I want to install a light switch to control all four lights in the middle of the left side of the house. I want to piggy-back the new wire and switch off of an existing switch. My question is, how do I do it? I have a rough idea of what to do, but I like to know exactly what I'm doing before I do it for obvious reasons.

The original switch actually bridges two wires. Each wire has a black and a white wire (no ground--the wires are too old for that.) When I run my new wire, that'll make three white wires, three black wires and a ground. I'll have to put all these wires onto two switches while simultaneously keeping the connection between the original two wires and getting power to the new wire. The original switch was set up as follows: The white wires were taped together and the black wires went into the switch.

Sounds like a fire waiting to happen. Seriously. I wouldn't add on to a switch that has already been added on to. Especially if there is no ground. Everytime it rains you run the risk of having current flow down along the house siding. Not only is it dangerous, but it will run your meter. Plus, floodlights can be a significant load, as most of theose babies are 150w each. I had three fixtures, two bulbs each (900W) on one switch on a new house, and when I worked the switch you could hear it spark. I switched the lamps to compact flourescent floods (yeah, they make them) and reduced the overall wattage so it is no longer a problem. The compacts take a while to warm up in cold weather but they give a nice even light within a minute or so.

My suggestion is to put in a new circuit, and go back to the circuit breaker box. If the house is so old it has fuses then I'd get an electrican to put in a new modern panel.

At a bare minimum I would piggyback off an existing grounded outlet. Find a little used outlet and put the switch directly above it. Use an "old work" box, and when you get the hole cut in the wall for the new box, take the old outlet out, and fish a new wire from it to the new hole in the wall directly above. You can use the new cable itself for this as the distance would only be about 4 feet and within the stud bay. The only way that you can screw this up is if you have trouble getting through insulation, so best to choose an inside wall if one is available.

Another piece of advice is to buy a $4 book at Lowes in the electrical department called something like "basic electrical wiring". I use mine all the time.

[nevadamedic]

If you were a Conservative I would tell you to buy off the person who comes out to do the inspections, but since your a Liberal that means your to cheap.

[Hagbard Celine]

Sounds like a fire waiting to happen. Seriously. I wouldn't add on to a switch that has already been added on to. Especially if there is no ground. Everytime it rains you run the risk of having current flow down along the house siding. Not only is it dangerous, but it will run your meter. Plus, floodlights can be a significant load, as most of theose babies are 150w each. I had three fixtures, two bulbs each (900W) on one switch on a new house, and when I worked the switch you could hear it spark. I switched the lamps to compact flourescent floods (yeah, they make them) and reduced the overall wattage so it is no longer a problem. The compacts take a while to warm up in cold weather but they give a nice even light within a minute or so.

My suggestion is to put in a new circuit, and go back to the circuit breaker box. If the house is so old it has fuses then I'd get an electrican to put in a new modern panel.

At a bare minimum I would piggyback off an existing grounded outlet. Find a little used outlet and put the switch directly above it. Use an "old work" box, and when you get the hole cut in the wall for the new box, take the old outlet out, and fish a new wire from it to the new hole in the wall directly above. You can use the new cable itself for this as the distance would only be about 4 feet and within the stud bay. The only way that you can screw this up is if you have trouble getting through insulation, so best to choose an inside wall if one is available.

Another piece of advice is to buy a $4 book at Lowes in the electrical department called something like "basic electrical wiring". I use mine all the time.

Ok, so instead of piggy-backing off of the switch, you recommend just adding a new breaker altogether. That's definately a more sound idea than I had. I think that's what I'll do. I have experience installing breakers from when I redid my stove and washingmachine/refridgerator wiring so it'll be no problem. Thanks. What is the recommended wattage for a floodlight breaker?

[glockmail]

Ok, so instead of piggy-backing off of the switch, you recommend just adding a new breaker altogether. That's definately a more sound idea than I had. I think that's what I'll do. I have experience installing breakers from when I redid my stove and washingmachine/refridgerator wiring so it'll be no problem. Thanks. What is the recommended wattage for a floodlight breaker?

Most residential lighting circuits only need to be 15 amp and 14 gauge wire.

[Hagbard Celine]

Most residential lighting circuits only need to be 15 amp and 14 gauge wire.

Is it safe to go over that recommendation or is just overkill or is it a moot point? Will it diffuse the current and make it weak to go over that guage?

[glockmail]

Is it safe to go over that recommendation or is just overkill or is it a moot point? Will it diffuse the current and make it weak to go over that guage?

You can always go heavier, like to a 12. Any heavier and the wire won't fit in the devices, which will all likely be rated for 15 amps. The important rule is that the fuse feeding the circuit, or breaker, must be rated to at or below the rating of all connected devices.

[glockmail]

Also some guys use a 12 from the breaker to the first device, then switch to a 14. In theory that should not be a problem, even beneficial, however in practice you have the potential to fool the guy who renovates behind you, sees the 12 ga wire and decides to upgrade the breaker to 20 amps and add onto that same circuit.

[Mr. P]

Ask Gunny, I think he's an electrician.

[nevadamedic]

Ask Gunny, I think he's an electrician.

If not, just go upto an electrical supply store and they can tell you. But make sure it's one of those stores that only deal in electrical supplies, they tend to know a hell of a lot more then Home Depot's. Lowe's sometimes can be helpfun but rarley. They also have books on this subject.

[Hagbard Celine]

Can anyone give me a general idea of how much to spend on cabinets for a kitchen that is approximately 10x10 feet? I ripped all the old stuff out, replaced the windows, tiled the floor and am now ripping the wall apart that separates the kitchen and the dining room to open up the space. I want to turn that area into a little countertop dining area, which should be easy enough. I know Home depot is doing a 10percent off sale with their cabinets, but I think you have to purchase a $100 "professional measurement" session to get the discount. Any advice?