Steel stud tips

[logroller]

I'm building, well actually rebuilding, an outdoor kitchen because the last one, made out of wood, got dry rot and termites. So my brother-in-law and I, after splitting a six pack, thought we'd go ahead and demolish the old. Now its time to rebuild, this time with steel. I've worked extensively with wood but never steel. Everybody I talked to says "Oh its the same thing", but its not. I start asking them questions about details on cantelevered bar, if it reinforces through a double stud and/or notched track and they look at me with a blank stare. Either I'm way off, or I've yet to talk with someone who's done more than just frame an interior wall. Is there anybody who's built an outdoor kitchen island that may have some tips, ideally pictures, I'd be extremely grateful.

[fj1200]

First of all the nails won't work.

Can't you get any tips from where you picked up the studs?

[logroller]

First of all the nails won't work.

Can't you get any tips from where you picked up the studs?

If a hammer won't work, use duct tape

I asked, but they're pretty much clueless. I asked about the size of screws, coatings for outdoor use...nothing. Just blank stares.
In retrospect I wish I would of kicked down for a DVD how to from bbqcoach.com, but the videos I've seen from them have this goofball voice that drives me crazy, so I refrained. Call me petty and stubborn; I suppose I'll do it the old-fashioned way--learn by doing! It'll come out OK, I'll just end up spending more over-building.

[fj1200]

If a hammer won't work, use duct tape

I asked, but they're pretty much clueless. I asked about the size of screws, coatings for outdoor use...nothing. Just blank stares.
In retrospect I wish I would of kicked down for a DVD how to from bbqcoach.com, but the videos I've seen from them have this goofball voice that drives me crazy, so I refrained. Call me petty and stubborn; I suppose I'll do it the old-fashioned way--learn by doing! It'll come out OK, I'll just end up spending more over-building.

Where did you get them from? That might be half the problem right there. I found this for you.

http://www.bbqgrillsandislands.com/t...ing-an-island/
An excerpt:

Framing with Galvanized Steel Studs
1. Do not use wood (fire hazard) or interior galvanized steel studs that are available at the big box stores. Interior galvanized steel studs are too thin and do not have enough galvanization to hold up for exterior use.
2. Purchase 20 gauge, galvanized 60 steel studs commercially. It’s best if you use both stud and track, since the track allows the studs to slip inside for perpendicular assembly.

Why not use concrete block? You probably don't need to be very good at setting block depending on what you're covering it with.

[logroller]

Where did you get them from? That might be half the problem right there. I found this for you.

http://www.bbqgrillsandislands.com/t...ing-an-island/
An excerpt:


Why not use concrete block? You probably don't need to be very good at setting block depending on what you're covering it with.

I got the right studs(20g, galv60), its the details of joinery I need help with. Figured out a lot today, and hopefully I'll get more done thursday (got rained out after getting the base done and all the studs cut.) It's working out OK, wish I had a chop saw though; I'm wasting through is carbide blades on the radial. I could use abrasive disks but the sparks risk damaging the wood table. Oh well, at $13 a piece its a drop in the bucket.

I didn't do block b/c the existing foundation was shallow at 6-8", no rebar and wont support the weight of solid grout block, a requirment for structures. Add to that there's a wedding in the yard on June 11, so there isn't time for the filled block to cure(~28days) before applying stucco. It would still stick, but would show the grout lines--too tacky for a $6000 project. So given the time constraint alone, I'm stuck with steel, 1/2" durock and acriflex one coat stucco. Still debating on what type of vapor barrier to use. On the sides it probably doesn't matter, but on the horizontal surfaces I'm leaning towards Tyvek due to availability, but I'm not sure about it's heat resistance.

[fj1200]

I got the right studs(20g, galv60), its the details of joinery I need help with. Figured out a lot today, and hopefully I'll get more done thursday (got rained out after getting the base done and all the studs cut.) It's working out OK, wish I had a chop saw though; I'm wasting through is carbide blades on the radial. I could use abrasive disks but the sparks risk damaging the wood table. Oh well, at $13 a piece its a drop in the bucket.

I didn't do block b/c the existing foundation was shallow at 6-8", no rebar and wont support the weight of solid grout block, a requirment for structures. Add to that there's a wedding in the yard on June 11, so there isn't time for the filled block to cure(~28days) before applying stucco. It would still stick, but would show the grout lines--too tacky for a $6000 project. So given the time constraint alone, I'm stuck with steel, 1/2" durock and acriflex one coat stucco. Still debating on what type of vapor barrier to use. On the sides it probably doesn't matter, but on the horizontal surfaces I'm leaning towards Tyvek due to availability, but I'm not sure about it's heat resistance.

I see, I'm surprised the vendor isn't more helpful but I'm sure you'll get it all straight. Is it like wood where if you're unsure just add more nails?

Why would you need a vapor barrier on an exterior structure? esp. on the top? Depends on what's going on top I suppose.

[glockmail]

I'm an expert with steel studs, but for an outdoor kitchen I'd suggest using masonry. Galvanized steel on a concrete patio with nearly constant moisture contact isn't going to last long (you're better off going with treated wood in that case). Also, you'll need some type of exterior sheathing to complete the walls.