One step at a time.
Take the black tape off your ground. By Code, only two (actually 3) colors are specifically dictated by code. The ground is ALWAYS green. The neutral is either white or "natural white" (a grey-ish color). There should be no reason for you ro reinsulate insulated wire. The "plastic" coating on the wire is the insulation. If it is new and free of nicks, it should be fine. If it makes you feel better, anywhere it passes through an opening that is bare metal which should not, couple of wraps of tape there.
The only time the ground is going to conduct heat (Volt-amps) is if the unit shorts. It should then trip the breaker and the charge go "to ground" (why it's called a ground
You have a 30@ and 2 20@ available for use. The one you have the green line drawn to that says available for a branch circuit is one of those available.
The bar on the left is your ground bar. Green
The bar on the bottom is your neutral. White or natural white
For each device you hook up, you should have a hot, neutral and ground. The hot could be any color wire. Usually black, red or blue for 120v.
Don't mess with the wires labeled "shore power" coming into the Main is they are your source of power.
If the water pump needs a dedicated circuit, you need to put it on one of the 20@ breakers by itself. That leaves you with 1 20@ circuit to do everything else so I would assume you would run a 20@ receptacle from it.
You will have to recalculate what I told you in my last post since you have a dedicated circuit that isn't drawing much. Add the amperage up and see if it exceeds 17@ (rule of thumb number as most 20@ breakers will trip pulling over 16.something amps). I know your electronics won't pull jack, but you mentioned some kind of cooking utensil. Heating elements suck amperage as they are nothing but open shorts.
I think I covered everything. If not, just ask.